Bakong

Bakong was built in 881 CE during the reign of King Indravarman I (reigned 877-889 CE), who established his capital at Hariharalaya, near the modern village of Roluos. Indravarman I is considered one of the great early Khmer kings who consolidated the empire and began the tradition of monumental temple construction. Bakong served as his state temple, dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, and housed the royal linga that symbolized the king's divine authority (devaraja).

The temple's construction marked a turning point in Khmer architecture. Earlier Khmer temples were single-level structures on the ground. Bakong introduced the stepped pyramid design that would become the defining feature of Khmer state temples for centuries. The temple was built using a combination of laterite (for the core structure), sandstone (for decorative elements and the upper tiers), and brick (for subsidiary shrines).

After the Khmer capital moved from Hariharalaya to Yasodharapura (the Angkor region) under King Yasovarman I in the late 9th century, Bakong lost its status as a state temple but continued as an active religious site. The central tower was modified in the 12th century, during the reign of King Suryavarman II (the builder of Angkor Wat), adding a stone sanctuary to replace the original wooden structure.

Bakong was one of the first Angkorian temples to be restored by the EFEO in the 1930s, with the central tower being largely reconstructed.

Bakong's architecture represents the first fully developed Khmer temple-mountain. The central pyramid rises in five tiers, each progressively smaller, creating a stepped profile that symbolizes the five peaks of Mount Meru. The base level measures 60 meters by 60 meters, with each tier set back from the one below. The total height from the ground to the summit is 14 meters.

The pyramid is constructed mainly of laterite, a porous iron-rich stone that hardens on exposure to air, with sandstone used for the upper tiers, steps, and decorative elements.

The central sanctuary on the summit was originally a wooden structure, replaced in the 12th century by the current sandstone tower. The tower, built in the Angkor Wat style, rises from a square base and features the typical corbelled dome construction of Khmer architecture. Eight brick towers surround the base of the pyramid, representing the eight directions of Hindu cosmology, and originally housed lingas dedicated to Shiva.

The temple complex is surrounded by three concentric enclosures, a layout that would become standard for Khmer temples. The outer enclosure, measuring about 900 meters by 700 meters, was originally defined by an outer wall and a moat, traces of which remain today. The second enclosure contains the main pyramid and subsidiary buildings. The inner enclosure surrounds the base of the pyramid. A processional causeway aligned east-west connects the temple to the outer gopura, passing through a large cruciform terrace.

The primary legend of Bakong involves its founding by King Indravarman I. According to tradition, the king was visited in a dream by the god Shiva, who instructed him to build a temple that would touch the sky. The king, unsure how to accomplish this, consulted his Brahmin advisors. They proposed the stepped pyramid design, with each tier bringing the temple closer to heaven while remaining firmly rooted to the earth.

The five tiers represented the five elements of Hindu cosmology: earth, water, fire, air, and ether.

Another legend tells of the temple's eight brick towers, which are said to represent eight of Vishnu's avatars. According to the story, the demon king Ravana once tried to disrupt a sacrifice at Bakong by uprooting the temple. The eight avatars held the temple in place, and the towers were built to commemorate their protection. The legend connects the Shaivite temple to the Vaishnavite mythology that dominated later Khmer religion.

A third narrative involves the monks of the active Buddhist monastery at Bakong. Local tradition holds that a revered Buddhist monk once mediated for three days and nights at the summit of Bakong without food or water. On the third night, the Buddha appeared to him and revealed the location of a hidden chamber within the pyramid containing ancient palm-leaf manuscripts.

The manuscripts, said to contain knowledge of medicine and astronomy, were retrieved and are still preserved at the nearby pagoda.

Bakong is part of the Roluos group of temples and participates in the broader festival calendar of the Angkor region. The most important festival at Bakong is the Bonn Pchum Ben (Ancestors' Day) in September-October, when the local community gathers at the temple to make offerings to their ancestors. The temple's active monastery means that Buddhist monks lead ceremonies throughout the year.

The Khmer New Year (April) sees local families visiting the temple to make merit and offer food to the monks. The temple courtyard hosts traditional Khmer games and cultural performances during this period. The annual Bonn Om Touk (Water Festival) in November is celebrated at Bakong as it is throughout Cambodia, with special prayers for the receding waters and the bounty of the harvest.

Bakong also celebrates Buddhist holy days (preah neam) on the full moon, new moon, and quarter moons of each month. On these days, local devotees bring offerings to the temple and the monks chant protective sutras. The temple's location in the countryside means that its festivals have a more traditional, village character than the tourist-oriented events at Angkor Wat.

Bakong functions as an active religious site with a Buddhist monastery operating within the temple grounds. Daily prayers begin at dawn when the resident monks gather at the temple's central sanctuary for morning chanting. Local villagers arrive throughout the morning to offer food, flowers, and incense at the shrine, making merit for their families.

The midday hours are observed with private meditation by the monks, and the temple remains open for visitors and devotees alike. The active monastery means that the sound of chanting and the scent of incense are almost always present, giving Bakong a living spiritual atmosphere that distinguishes it from purely archaeological sites.

Evening ceremonies include the lighting of oil lamps and the chanting of protective sutras by the monks. On full moon and new moon days, larger gatherings of devotees participate in candlelight circumambulation of the central pyramid. Visitors are welcome to observe the ceremonies from a respectful distance and may receive blessings from the monks upon request.

Bakong is located in the Roluos group of temples, approximately 13 kilometers east of Siem Reap city center along National Highway 6. The temple is easily accessible by car, tuk-tuk, or bicycle from Siem Reap. A taxi or tuk-tuk from Siem Reap takes 20-30 minutes. Most visitors include Bakong as part of a half-day trip to the Roluos group, which also includes Preah Ko and Lolei.

The Roluos temples are conveniently located near Siem Reap International Airport (about 10 kilometers from the airport), making Bakong a good first stop for visitors arriving on morning flights or a last stop before departure. The highway leading to the temples is well-paved and in good condition.

Bicycling to Bakong from Siem Reap is a pleasant ride along a flat road passing through Cambodian villages and rice fields. The 13-kilometer journey takes approximately 45 minutes to one hour, making it a popular choice for active travelers who want to experience rural Cambodia.