Phnom Bakheng

Phnom Bakheng was built between 889 and 910 CE by King Yasovarman I (reigned 889-910 CE), the son of Indravarman I (builder of Bakong). Yasovarman moved the Khmer capital from Hariharalaya (Roluos) to the Angkor region, establishing a new city called Yasodharapura.

The selection of Phnom Bakheng as the site for the new state temple was strategic: the natural hill provided a defensible position and a prominent landmark that could be seen from miles around, asserting the king's presence over the landscape.

The temple's construction marked the beginning of the Angkor period, the golden age of Khmer civilization that would last for over 500 years. Yasovarman's urban plan included not only Phnom Bakheng but also the construction of a massive water reservoir (the Eastern Baray, measuring 7.1 km by 1.7 km) and the founding of hundreds of temple-shrines. The city of Yasodharapura was the first of several Angkor capitals, each centered around a different temple-mountain.

After the Khmer capital shifted to the Angkor Thom area under King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century, Phnom Bakheng lost its position as the central state temple. However, it remained an important religious site through the centuries. The temple underwent restoration by the World Monuments Fund and the APSARA Authority in the early 2000s to address structural instability caused by the huge numbers of tourists climbing to the summit for sunset views.

Phnom Bakheng is a temple-mountain built on a natural hill, combining human construction with the existing topography. The temple proper consists of a five-tiered pyramid of laterite and sandstone built on the summit of the 67-meter hill.

The base of the pyramid measures approximately 76 meters on each side, and the total height from the ground to the top of the central sanctuary is about 25 meters, bringing the effective height of the entire structure to over 90 meters above the surrounding plain.

The five tiers of the pyramid are accessed by steep stairways on each of the four cardinal directions. The stairs, like those of most Khmer temple-mountains, are extremely steep (over 70 degrees), symbolizing the difficulty of ascending to the realm of the gods. Each tier was originally lined with small sandstone towers, of which approximately 44 survive out of the original 108.

The towers are arranged with 6 on each side of each tier (totaling 24 per tier across 4 sides), plus a ring at the base and 4 around the central sanctuary, totaling 108.

The central sanctuary, now largely in ruins, originally housed a Shiva linga. The sanctuary is built of sandstone and features the typical Khmer corbelled dome construction. From the central platform, visitors have a 360-degree view of the Angkor plain. The western side of the summit offers the famous view of Angkor Wat, perfectly framed between the surviving towers of Phnom Bakheng.

The primary legend of Phnom Bakheng centers on its natural hill. According to Khmer tradition, the hill was not a natural formation but was built by the gods as a throne for the god Indra. When Indra descended to earth to establish the kingdom of Cambodia, he sat on this hill to survey the land.

The hill itself is therefore considered sacred, and King Yasovarman I built his temple-mountain on top of it to connect his earthly reign with Indra's divine authority.

Another legend involves the 108 towers of Phnom Bakheng. According to tradition, the temple was built to align with the 108 stars of the zodiac, with each tower corresponding to a specific star. On the night of the winter solstice, the moon rises in perfect alignment with the central sanctuary and the major towers, a phenomenon that still occurs annually. The temple was thus designed as a giant astronomical observatory as well as a place of worship.

A third narrative concerns the foundation of Yasodharapura itself. When King Yasovarman I decided to move his capital from Hariharalaya, he consulted his chief Brahmin, who instructed the king to release a sacred white elephant and follow it without stopping. The elephant walked for three days and finally stopped at the foot of Phnom Bakheng. The king took this as a divine sign and established his new capital city there, with Phnom Bakheng as its spiritual center.

Phnom Bakheng is not a site of major festivals due to its role primarily as a state temple and ceremonial monument rather than an active religious center. However, it is incorporated into the broader Angkor festival calendar. During the Angkor Sankranta festival in January, special sunset ceremonies are sometimes held at Phnom Bakheng, with Apsara dance performances and traditional music.

The temple sees its highest attendance during the Khmer New Year (April) and the Bonn Pchum Ben (September-October), when visitors combine holy day observances with sunset viewing. The winter and summer solstices, which have special significance in the temple's astronomical design, attract informed visitors and astronomy enthusiasts.

While Phnom Bakheng itself has no regular religious ceremonies, the small Buddhist shrine at the base of the hill receives offerings from local villagers who consider the hill a sacred site. The modern Buddhist monastery near the foot of the hill conducts regular prayers and ceremonies that include the veneration of the ancient temple above.

Phnom Bakheng does not have regular daily rituals conducted on the summit due to its status as an archaeological monument with restricted access. However, the small Buddhist shrine and monastery at the base of the hill maintain daily worship activities. Monks from the nearby monastery conduct morning prayers at the base shrine, offering incense and chanting Pali sutras at dawn.

Local villagers visit the base shrine throughout the day to make offerings of flowers, incense, and food. The hill itself is considered sacred in local tradition, and many Cambodians make a brief prayer at the foot of the hill before beginning their ascent to the summit.

On full moon days and Buddhist holy days, larger gatherings of devotees assemble at the base monastery for special ceremonies. These include candlelight processions, extended chanting sessions, and communal offerings. The summit itself is occasionally used for special ceremonial events during the Angkor Sankranta festival, when traditional dance performances are held at sunset.

Phnom Bakheng is located within the Angkor Archaeological Park, approximately 1.5 kilometers north of Angkor Wat and 6 kilometers north of Siem Reap city center. Access is through the main Angkor park entrance, with the same ticket valid for Phnom Bakheng as for Angkor Wat and all other park temples. A paved road leads from the main Angkor park road to the base of Phnom Bakheng hill.

From Siem Reap, a taxi or tuk-tuk can reach the temple in 15-20 minutes. Most visitors combine Phnom Bakheng sunset with a day of temple visiting, arriving directly from Angkor Wat or Angkor Thom. A steep but well-maintained path climbs from the base of the hill to the temple summit. The climb takes 10-15 minutes of moderate exertion. Elephant rides to the summit were discontinued in recent years to protect the temple structure.

Visitors planning to see the sunset must be at the temple before 5:30 PM (the cut-off for admission to the summit). During peak season, the 300-slot limit fills quickly, and late arrivals are turned away. Secure a sunset spot the day before by purchasing an Angkor pass and confirming opening hours.