Pura Besakih

The earliest structures at Pura Besakih date from the 8th century, with the first recorded stone inscriptions referring to the site discovered from 1279 CE during the reign of the Warmadewa dynasty. The complex gained prominence under the Majapahit Empire, which conquered Bali in 1343 and established a Hindu-Buddhist civilization that profoundly shaped Balinese culture.

The legendary Hindu priest Dang Hyang Nirartha, who arrived in Bali from Java in the 16th century, is credited with spiritually revitalizing Besakih and establishing many of its ritual traditions. During the period of Dutch colonial rule (1846–1949), the Dutch recognized Besakih's political and religious significance and respected its sanctity, viewing it as a central institution through which colonial authority could be mediated.

The most dramatic event in modern Besakih history occurred during the catastrophic eruption of Mount Agung in 1963. Lava flows came within meters of the main temple complex but stopped just short of the structures, a phenomenon widely regarded by Balinese Hindus as a divine miracle affirming the temple's sanctity. Despite significant ash damage requiring extensive restoration, the temple survived largely intact, cementing its status as a site of extraordinary spiritual power.

Pura Besakih's architectural ensemble represents the pinnacle of Balinese temple design, with Pura Penataran Agung serving as the architectural and spiritual centerpiece. This main temple comprises a series of seven progressively elevated courtyards connected by elaborately carved stone gateways known as candi bentar (split gates) and paduraksa (covered gates).

The entrance approach begins with a massive candi bentar gate at the lowest level and ascends through a sequence of courtyards, each marked by increasingly ornate gateways, culminating in the innermost sanctum where the meru—the multi-tiered shrines characteristic of Balinese architecture—are arranged. The most prominent meru, dedicated to Shiva, rises through eleven tiers, the maximum number reserved for the most sacred temples, representing Mount Meru, the cosmic mountain of Hindu mythology.

All structures are constructed from volcanic stone, richly adorned with carved demonic guardians (bhoma and kala heads), floral scrollwork, and narrative panels. The temple complex is oriented toward the summit of Mount Agung, aligning the built sacred space with the natural sacred landscape in accordance with the Balinese directional system, which considers the volcano the holiest and most auspicious direction.

According to Balinese tradition, Pura Besakih was believed to have been created when the gods divided Mount Meru, the cosmic mountain of Hindu mythology, and created the islands of the Indonesian archipelago. One fragment of the divine mountain became Mount Agung in Bali, and Besakih was established at its base as the earthly counterpart to the celestial realm.

The temple is intimately connected with the legend of Rsi Markandeya, a Javanese Hindu sage who journeyed to Bali in the 8th century. The sage is said to have meditated at the site and received a divine revelation instructing him to establish a temple at the foot of Mount Agung to serve as a unifying spiritual center for the island's inhabitants.

Another important legend recounts the 1963 eruption of Mount Agung, during which the lava flows miraculously parted around the temple compound despite destroying surrounding villages. This event is interpreted by devotees as tangible evidence of the temple's divine protection and is commemorated in temple iconography and ritual.

The site is also associated with the myth of the dragon Naga Besukih, a serpent deity believed to dwell within the mountain and to guard the temple complex, whose benevolent presence ensures the fertility of the surrounding land.

The most significant ceremonial event at Pura Besakih is the Eka Dasa Rudra, a massive purification ritual held once every one hundred years according to the Balinese calendar. The ceremony, considered the most important in Balinese Hinduism, involves the entire island's population in a collective effort to restore cosmic balance and purify the world from negative forces.

The most recent Eka Dasa Rudra was held in 2013, having been postponed from its scheduled 1979 date due to lingering concerns following the 1963 eruption—which itself was interpreted by some as divine displeasure related to the timing of the previous ceremony. The temple's primary annual festival (odalan) of Pura Penataran Agung falls on the 60th day of the Balinese pawukon calendar cycle and lasts for seven days.

During this period, tens of thousands of devotees from across Bali converge on Besakih in elaborate processions, carrying offerings, temple banners, and sacred objects. Other significant observances include Galungan and Kuningan, the Balinese New Year of Nyepi, and the full moon festival of Purnama, which draws large numbers of pilgrims to the complex.

Daily worship at Pura Besakih follows the intricate schedule of Balinese Hinduism, beginning before dawn when temple priests (pemangku) prepare offerings of flowers, fruits, and food for the deities across the 23 constituent temples. The morning prayers, known as puja tri sandhya, are conducted three times daily at sunrise, noon, and sunset, with devotees gathering at Pura Penataran Agung for synchronized chanting and offerings.

Each of the temple's 23 constituent shrines follows its own ritual calendar, but daily offerings are placed at every altar without exception, making Besakih among the most continuously active ritual sites in the world.

Pura Besakih is located about 50 kilometers northeast of Denpasar and 35 kilometers from Ubud. Access is by car or organized tour; public minibuses (bemo) run irregularly from Denpasar's Batubulan terminal. The drive takes approximately 90 minutes from Denpasar and one hour from Ubud.